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Even to a native of Halifax, the province’s friendly capital – where the traffic stops dead to let jaywalkers cross the road – the boondocks of Nova Scotia can seem sleepy. In Lunenburg, a sloping grid of brightly painted houses and white churches, there was scarcely a soul on the street. Outside the back of the Dockside Restaurant a chef on his cigarette break told me he had moved there from Halifax seeking a quiet and safe place to bring up his daughter.
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